With a wealth of historic castles, houses and monuments, Galway East resounds to the
echoes of the past...
It is said
that it is a country where there is not water enough to drown a man, wood
enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury them
This was how the Burren region - a
dramatic outcrop of limestone encompassing 600 sq. km of north Clare and south
Galway ? was described by an officer in one of the marauding armies of Oliver
Cromwell some 350 years ago. Today, the Burren attracts far more favourable
reviews from the legions of admirers who visit the region to explore what is
widely considered to be Ireland?s flagship heritage landscape.
The first thing one can safely say
about the Burren is that it is a place apart. Often described as a ?lunar
landscape?, the soaring terraces of exposed limestone which compromise the
Burren provide a real contrast to the ?forty shades of green? for which
Ireland?s ?Emerald Isle? is widely famed. Here, the limestone skeleton which
underlies much of the Irish landscape is laid bare. Over time this soluble
limestone has been sculpted by erosive rainwater to create an oasis of
geological oddities, featuring labyrinthine cave systems, disappearing lakes
(known as ?turloughs?), and bizarrely dissected pavements composed of massive
rectangular blocks called ?clints? dissected by cracks called ?grikes?.
In spite of its ostensibly hostile
appearance, the Burren has always proven attractive for settlement, with
generations of farmers attracted by the light, dry soils, herb-rich flora and
calcium-rich water. This history of settlement extends back almost six thousand
years, and is eloquently reflected in the 5,800 years old Megalithic dolmen at
Poulnabrone where evidence of Neolithic farming activity was uncovered. Later
generations of farmers built hundreds of stone forts or cahers (and later
castles) to keep their stock safe from wolves and thieves, and thousands of
miles of stone walls to manage their herds. Today these, and many other
monuments from many other generations, constitute probably the richest and
best-preserved cultural landscape in Ireland.
The Burren?s rocky hills also
contain a superb ecology, featuring over three quarters of Ireland?s native flowering
plants. The seasonal transformation of
the ostensibly drab, barren uplands in winter into a multicoloured summer
tapestry is indeed quite miraculous, so much so that it inspired Cistercian
monks to dedicate, in 1198AD, their new Abbey in the Burren to Our Lady of the
?fertile rock? ? a fitting acknowledgement of the paradoxical natural richness
of the rocky region.
The annual appearance of this flora
is heralded with the flowering, in late spring, of the beautiful blue spring
gentian. A member of the region?s rare Arctic-Alpine flora which also includes
the mountain avens, their presence in the Burren is all the more remarkable
considering that plants of Mediterranean origin - such as the maidenhair fern
and the irish orchid ? are also found here. The Burren?s 20-odd orchid species are
another favourite: though less showy than their equatorial counterparts they
are nonetheless fascinating, as suggested by their names ? butterfly, bee, frog
and fly orchids.
There is one other aspect of the
Burren worthy of note - this is the story of the people of the Burren, in
particular the farmers, and their role in shaping this landscape and sustaining
this heritage. Take the aforementioned flora for example: few
visitors are aware of its dependency on the ancient agricultural tradition of
winter grazing (?winterage?) that continues to be practised in the region.
Under this unique system, animals graze the rocky Burren hills in winter,
removing rank grasses, weeds and decayed vegetation, with the result that the
often-minute Burren plants can flower unhindered the following summer. These
livestock and their herders are, after a fashion, the ?unsung heroes? of the
Burren ? without them the spectacular floral and archaeological heritage of the
Burren would be greatly diminished, shrouded instead by a cover of hazed and
blackthorn scrub.
No doubt about it, the Burren is one truly special
and unique place, a richly rewarding landscape for those who choose to explore
it. The unique combination of geological, archaeological and ecological
features found in the region are individually significant, collectively
exceptional. Take some time to unlock the Burren?s many secrets and you won?t be
disappointed - but please treat the Burren with the respect that it so richly
deserves.
More information at the Burrenbeo Resource Centre in Kinvara.
Burrenbeo is a not-for-profit organisation
Contact Details
Tel : 091 638096
Email : info@burrenbeo.com
Web : www.burrenbeo.com